So Long, And Thanks For All the Fish Sauce.

Our last day in Phu Quoc. We strolled through town to the river to see the rest of the port.
UPDATE: Click here for all our photos of our stay in Phu Quoc.

The squid boats are tied together waiting for dusk. The big lights
mounted above their decks are used to lure the squid into the nets.

The harbor is crowded and dirty. The boats are rickety, but apparently functional.

Later, we toured the fish sauce factory. Said tour consisted of various
people pointing out the warehouse where the giant vats of fermenting anchovies
lurk in odiferous splendor, and indicating that we should wander amongst them
to our hearts' content. We did.

A worker drowses away the afternoon.

P. does the same.

And so the sun sets on our final day here. Next stop: Ho Chi Minh City.

P.

Phu Rock!

We went our to dinner on Monday night to a place called Chez Carole which claimed to offer pizza cooked in a wood-fired oven. The pizza was good, but what was really hot was the trio from the Philippines who did pop covers--Abba (insanely popular here), Cyndi Lauper, Foreigner, even a little country-western. Pretty good voices, no accents. They wouldn't have been out of place playing the Radisson in Des Moines.


P.

I Like to Be, Under the Sea.

It's been a long time since I've been diving, and I love the South Pacific best. So I was looking forward to diving this side of the Gulf of Thailand. I did two days of dives. O. went along as an observer on the second day.

It was still early morning as we eased out of the narrow channel at the harbor's entrance.

But still the ubiquitous bride and groom taking wedding shots were there.

It was a beautiful morning to be out on the water. The sea was glassy, the breezes soft and fresh.

The sky was (to my mind) the quintessential South Pacific sky--
deep clear blue punctuated by big puffy white clouds.

The rocking of the boat was very soothing as we headed to the south end of the island.

The diving wasn't spectacular. The viz was only about 20-30 feet,
but the coral was profuse and there were lots of little fish, the big ones
being quickly fished out. We saw two cuttlefish, which flashed through
many color changes as we observed them observing us. We also saw
many nudibranchs,and a huge turban snail inching its way
across the sea floor.

The fisher folk were out in force. One of them was defecating over the side as
we dropped anchor at our first dive site. Good for the fish life, I suppose.

This little reef was pretty pristine, though.

On our way back, we saw our hotel from the water.

By day, it's easier to see the poverty of the port.

The main export here is fish sauce. Phu Quoc is reputed to make the best,
so the fishing industry is big, and the port is jammed with many colorful fishing boats.

P.

Life's a Beach.

So here we are in paradise. Now I remember how much I've missed the ocean, how much I love tropical islands. The temp is about 82, but there's a soft, cool breeze. Our little hotel is funky and family-run, very friendly and laid-back.

There are no high-rises. and even though all the hotels are full,
there are so few hotels that the beaches are practically empty.

The island's population is mostly very poor. Here's one of the fishing boats the locals use.

It's a beautiful, tranquil spot. The noise and frenetic energy of Hanoi seem very far away.

P.

We're Here! (Posted from poolside)

P.

The High (and Low) Cost of Health Care.

In preparation for our trip to Cambodia, we went to a health clinic to get malaria pills. We also needed to get our third and final Hepatitis B shots, and I needed a refill of my hypertension pills. Because the days have been so hectic lately, we elected to go on the weekend. We went to one of the major clinics in town that caters to expats, International S.O.S. The nurse was very nice. She assured us that they could get us malaria. We chuckled until she gave us the the price sheet which showed that it would cost us $140 each just to see the doctor. However, if we were willing to wait until Monday, the cost would drop to a mere $75 apiece.

Now that may sound okay by US standards, but for Hanoi, it's highway robbery. So we decided we'd rearrange our schedules so we could go on Monday to the clinic where we got our second Hep B shots, the Korean-Vietnamese Friendship Clinic.

On Monday, then, we got our jabs and pokes and prods and left having spent a mere $35 total. That's for doctor's consultation, Hep B shots, and two month perscription refill.

We may not be Korean or Vietnamese, but the KV Friendship Clinic is our friend.

P.

Hanoi Delights. The Yum Goes On.

Speaking of pho xao (fuh sow), here is the dish in all it glory.

So you have the stir-fried noodles and such, then all the accoutrements and condiments.
From right to left: beef broth with herbs and green onions, lime wedges,
the requisite pitcher of fish sauce, chopped chiles, pickled garlic in vinegar,
and a cold Hanoi Beer. You ladle on the chiles and pickled garlic, squeeze
a couple of lime wedges over it, pour the fish sauce on the noodles,
and pour the beer down your throat. So delicious!
You also add all of the above to the broth and sip it with your meal.
Total for two: $3 (including beer).

The well-seasoned wok is key to the subtle smoky flavor of the finished dish.

This place is the literal definition of a hole in the wall.
It's right across the street from the beginning of our alley.
Lucky us.

P.

Let "X" Equal...Banana?

I just got back from a lovely lunch of my beloved pho xao (pho with fried noodles, which is actually a plate of smoky fried noodles stir-fried with lots of greens, onions, garlic and a little beef. It comes with a cup of savory beef broth on the side.) On the way home, desiring a bit of the sweet, I purchased a greasy banana fritter to munch as I strolled. Like fish and chips in the UK, the fritters come wrapped in paper to keep the grease off your hands. Usually, it's squares of newspaper, but this time it was neatly-trimmed notebook paper, one side of which had someone's carefully-written algebra homework on it.

Truly nothing is wasted here.

P.

Post Haste. (Not)

So I've been a little slack on the bloggery lately. A perfect storm of not much new going on (other than our lovely new granddaughter, who O. has covered very well), being incredibly busy at work, and working the logistics for our next big adventure: we leave Saturday for Saigon and Cambodia for a two-week, much needed vacation.

We're in the process of reassessing everything in the wake of Mirabel's birth. We want to move to Boise to help John and Emily, but we're worried about the economics of that move. We know we can make at least a little money here, and the idea of going back to hemorrhaging cash doesn't appeal. Also, though the emotional absence of family and friends is extremely difficult, the freedom and adventure of what we're doing is still immensely enticing. It's a dilemma. We have time to ponder this; we're committed to being here through mid-June. Then we'll see where we need to be.

This was a major week for me at VietSoftware. They've been trying to partner with a large American software company to help modernize one of the major local banks, but had been unable to interest anyone in the project (or even get anyone to return their calls). I was able to connect them with the right people at the company, and this week we had a meeting with the bank and the American company's top technical sales guy. The bank has agreed to fund a pilot program, so we're moving forward. This could be a huge opportunity for VSII, since they have connections at many of the local banks and telcos to replicate a successful program.

Saturday, we fly to Saigon and immediately connect on a flight to Phu Quoc, a small island between Vietnam and Cambodia. There I will dive and O. will loll on the veranda of our beachfront bungalow for four blissful days. Then it's back to Saigon to visit with our friends Colin and Natalie, who moved there from Hanoi at the beginning of this month. We've missed them, so we're really looking forward to seeing them again and exploring Saigon together. Then we go by coach to Chau Doc, deep in the Mekong delta, and catch a boat upriver to Phnom Penh. From there we take the bus to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat, a place we have dreamed of visiting for years. Our friends Justin and Jyoti just happen to be there at the same time, so that will be fun. We'll stay there and explore for a few days, then bus back to Saigon before we fly back to Hanoi.

We don't know if we'll be able to post much on our travels, but rest assured that many pictures will be posted as we can do so.

P.

Miraculous Mirabel Comes Home

Oh happy day...John amd Emily brought Mirabel home yesterday. The Davidson/Nielsen household is now all under one roof. Yay.

Bundled up and ready to go home.

All snuggly in her car seat.

Two pictures and one video

The pictures just keep on coming of our new little bundle of love. She is now off light therapy for her jaundice and is able to wear actual baby clothes. How cool is that?

Sweet Mirabel

With her eyes open

This video is a few minutes long and worth each and every minute. Our dear daughter-in-law, Emily (who is also Mirabel's Mama), shared it with the family and I am pleased to share it with you. I hope you'll take the time to watch it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_-P4t2jR1g

O.

Hanoi Delights: The Matchbox.

Sometimes we have to eat western food. It's pricey (by Hanoi standards), but sometimes the craving for a taste of home overcomes us. That's when we head to The Matchbox, a tiny French-Asian fusion cafe a few blocks from us.

They have a stellar duck confit for about $7. Good pastas, very tasty
pork and chicken dishes. And pretty good Chilean wines by the glass.
There's actually a little Chilean wine shop next door where one can purchase
a decent Malbec for about $7 a bottle.

Sometimes we just want bacon and eggs. They do this well,
with great bacon. And they make an excellent espresso, too.
They even have a small pitcher of cream on the table! Milk is not hard
to come by here, if you know where to look, but cream is next to
impossible to find, so this is a real treat. (Half-and-half is impossible to find.)
We always leave here with a smile, but at about $7.50 for two for breakfast,
and $15 for lunch or dinner (with wine), it's an indulgence we don't indulge in often.

P.

Steve (and T), This one's for you.

P.

Hanoi Delights: Real Street Food.

When we leave Vietnam, bun cha is definitely one thing we will miss. It's a Hanoi staple. Every street has multiple bun cha vendors.

It doesn't take much to set up a stand.

A space to grill. You certainly don't need a grill. An old pot filled with
charcoal works just fine (the fan keeps the coals going and the smoke away
from the paying customers).

And a few stools and tables.

The sidewalk is both dining room and parking lot.

So here's how it works: small slices of pork belly and bite-sized patties of seasoned ground pork are grilled and served in a light meat broth tangy with a dash of fish sauce along with slices of green mango, garlic, and carrot. Each diner also gets a plate heaped with rice vermicelli and there's a basket of mixed salad greens and herbs for the table. And a plate of chopped chiles. The greens are utterly fresh and include several kinds of lettuce, cilantro, mint, watercress, bean sprouts, and a really delicious herb that we've never encountered before, probably a relative of the mint family, but with a very distinctive flavor. You throw the noodles and greens and chiles into the broth a little at a time, and slurp it down, savoring the different flavors and textures. Yum. At this point it doesn't matter that you're eating this hunched over a tiny plastic table on a noisy, dusty street corner. You notice only the deliciousness. The indispensible accompaniment is nem ran (far left), the ubiquitous fried spring rolls always sold along with bun cha. Crunchy and savory. The whole meal runs about $1.25 per person.

P.

Hanoi Delights: Celebrating Mirabel Ruby.

To celebrate the arrival of our newest granddaughter, we splurged on a nice bottle of St. Emilion and inaugurated our oven by roasting some pork. We inserted slivers of garlic into the pork, then rolled it in salt, pepper, rosemary, and anise seed. We roasted it with potatoes and big chunks of garlic.

Also okra sauteed with onion and butter, and a medley of sauteed mushrooms.

A tasty St. Emilion went very nicely with it.

A fabulous meal to commemorate the birth of our fabulous granddaughter.

Here's to you, Mirabel Ruby.

P. & O.

Donald, Mickey, and Porky: a Tragic Tale.

P.

Introducing Mirabel Ruby

We welcome our fifth granddaughter into our family.

Mirabel made her entry into the world and into our lives in the wee hours of the morning - 4:53am - on January 15th. This sweet bundle of love weighted in at 8lbs. 60z. As can be seen from the pictures below, she is gorgeous, angelic, and she is a Down Syndrome baby. We are so happy and excited to have her join our family. The only difficult part is that it may be months before we can meet her personally.

Mama, Daddy and baby are doing fine. So is big sister Luciya and bigger sister Eryn.

Newly born Mirabel Ruby

A few hours old.

Sleeping peacefully.

P. & O.