Arequipa is built on the debris field of one of the most striking volcanoes in Peru, El Misti. The volcanic stone quarried to build the city has a high ash content, leading to the nickname "the White City." About a million people live here, and in the years since the city's founding in 1540 they have developed a distinctive culture and cuisine.
Arequipa is the most beautiful city in Peru, at least according to the Arequipans. And I, for one, would not want to argue with them. The setting is certainly spectacular. The city is surrounded on three sides by volcanoes, Misti, Chachani, and Picchu Picchu. And the weather is exceptional as well. Even though the elevation is between 7,000 and 9,000 feet, temperatures are pretty constant year-round: high 70s during the day, mid 40s at night.
We got in to our hotel after dark, so we didn't know what to expect when we walked out of our hotel the next morning.
Looking to the left we saw Chachani framed between white-walled houses. I think we fell a little in love with Arequipa then. The wide-angle lens doesn't do justice to the way the volcanoes loom over the city. They feel large and close, and it's quite a thrill as you're walking the twisting, narrow cobblestone streets to suddenly catch an unexpected glimpse of one or another of these snow-capped giants.
And speaking of the hotel, it was a particularly lovely little B&B. Unprepossessing from the outside, but full of color and thoughtful design touches inside.
Park maintenance is done by llamas.
The Chile river runs through town. The urban area is dotted with small truck farms. The soil is very fertile and the fruits and produce are excellent.
In Peru, the main square of a city, called a zocalo in Mexico, is usually called the Plaza de Armas. Arequipa's is large and colorful, bordered by the cathedral, shops and government buildings.
It's also the site of ongoing protests against the Tia Maria copper mine. Farmers and activists oppose the mine because of concerns that runoff from the huge project will pollute Arequipa's water supply. Recently, the protests have turned violent. The poster says three dead, but as of yesterday the toll has risen to five and a state of emergency has been declared.
We were cautioned about going to Arequipa, but decided to risk it. We're glad we did. Other than these signs and some heightened police presence, everything seemed to be peaceful in Arequipa itself.
On our way to lunch, we walked through some lovely neighborhoods.
We ate at Tipika, which bills itself as serving typical Arequipan foods. I had crispy pork because that's how I roll.
O had parihuela, a Peruvian fish stew.
Later we visited the Santa Catalina monastery, a private convent that has been a part of Arequipan culture since the 1500s. Outside, the convent is simple and austere.
Inside, it's colorful and serene, with gardens and its own streets. Many of the nuns were from wealthy families and owned their own houses inside the monastery walls. Even wealthy families could not afford to provide a dowry for more than one or two daughters. It was cheaper to buy them into a religious order. And considering the traditional arranged marriage of the time, it was probably a freer life for those forced into it.
These huge pots were cut in half and used as wash tubs in the convent's laundry area. In the early days, most nuns had several slave women living with them to handle cooking and cleaning.
On the way back to our hotel, we saw this election poster. It says that with the candidate, for a clean, modern and safe district, Yanahuara (the district where our hotel is) will be "FULL HD."
For me, Arequipa is FULL HD.
P.
Looking to the left we saw Chachani framed between white-walled houses. I think we fell a little in love with Arequipa then. The wide-angle lens doesn't do justice to the way the volcanoes loom over the city. They feel large and close, and it's quite a thrill as you're walking the twisting, narrow cobblestone streets to suddenly catch an unexpected glimpse of one or another of these snow-capped giants.
And speaking of the hotel, it was a particularly lovely little B&B. Unprepossessing from the outside, but full of color and thoughtful design touches inside.
Park maintenance is done by llamas.
The Chile river runs through town. The urban area is dotted with small truck farms. The soil is very fertile and the fruits and produce are excellent.
In Peru, the main square of a city, called a zocalo in Mexico, is usually called the Plaza de Armas. Arequipa's is large and colorful, bordered by the cathedral, shops and government buildings.
It's also the site of ongoing protests against the Tia Maria copper mine. Farmers and activists oppose the mine because of concerns that runoff from the huge project will pollute Arequipa's water supply. Recently, the protests have turned violent. The poster says three dead, but as of yesterday the toll has risen to five and a state of emergency has been declared.
We were cautioned about going to Arequipa, but decided to risk it. We're glad we did. Other than these signs and some heightened police presence, everything seemed to be peaceful in Arequipa itself.
On our way to lunch, we walked through some lovely neighborhoods.
We ate at Tipika, which bills itself as serving typical Arequipan foods. I had crispy pork because that's how I roll.
O had parihuela, a Peruvian fish stew.
Later we visited the Santa Catalina monastery, a private convent that has been a part of Arequipan culture since the 1500s. Outside, the convent is simple and austere.
Inside, it's colorful and serene, with gardens and its own streets. Many of the nuns were from wealthy families and owned their own houses inside the monastery walls. Even wealthy families could not afford to provide a dowry for more than one or two daughters. It was cheaper to buy them into a religious order. And considering the traditional arranged marriage of the time, it was probably a freer life for those forced into it.
These huge pots were cut in half and used as wash tubs in the convent's laundry area. In the early days, most nuns had several slave women living with them to handle cooking and cleaning.
On the way back to our hotel, we saw this election poster. It says that with the candidate, for a clean, modern and safe district, Yanahuara (the district where our hotel is) will be "FULL HD."
For me, Arequipa is FULL HD.
P.
2 comments:
That was great Peter, thanks. I've never been to Arequipa or wanted to...now I am sorry I didn't. It reminds me a little of Antiqua, not the 9,000 feet, but the architecture and volcano views.
Thanks, Steve. It does have a bit of an Antiguan vibe. Not as lush, because it's higher and drier, but that volcanic/earth energy that makes Antigua such a powerful place.
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