The first thing we saw on our way to Hilo was goats. There are lots of feral goats on the island, and some of them were waiting patiently at the side of the highway to greet us. I think they were pretty disappointed O wasn't with us.
As rocky and bare as the northwest of the island is, the northeast is wet and wild. The tradewinds bring plenty moisture, and the plant life is incredibly lush. It all changes in just a few miles, after a brief transitionary landscape of rolling grasslands that is home to the vast Parker Ranch.
Dozens of streams run down the hillsides.
I'm not sure what these trees are, but I love their shape.
As well as these huge banyans.
We checked into our AirB&B in the hills just north of Hilo town, then drove to a little hole-in-the-wall Thai restaurant for lunch with Emily's father's brother's ex-wife, who is a local. An odd connection, but she's still a family friend, and we had a great time talking with her about life on the island. She gave us excellent advice about our next adventure: a visit to Kilauea. We had heard it was best to go at night, but she suggested 3:00 am to avoid the crowds. She had just been there the morning before and told us that the volcano was definitely erupting.
We were excited about seeing the eruption, though less so about getting up at 2:00 am for the fifty-minute drive to the crater. We decided that a 4:00 am arrival was just fine, and it was.
Luckily, Katherine's directions were detailed and precise, and we were able to find parking and the trail to the crater in the dark without much trouble. The moon was still almost full, so that helped.
The first sign of the volcano was a deep red-orange glow in the sky. We followed it like a beacon to the viewing area, which was empty except for two other people.
Peering over the rim of the crater, we could see the blazing lava lake.
Fountains of molten rock were ceaselessly spewing into the smoky air. Everything was so quiet that we could hear the explosions of magma, like the heavy breathing of a large animal. In fact, it sounded almost exactly like the deep plosive exhale of a whale surfacing.
We watched the eruption for about 45 minutes, mesmerized, then more people started arriving. Unfortunately they were talkers, completely disrupting the contemplative atmosphere.
As we walked back to the car, the stars were sharp and clear, even with the bright moonlight.
Because Hawaii is so far south, the Big Dipper and Polaris were low on the horizon.
While Scorpio was high enough for the entire tail to be visible over the trees.
And in the east, Venus was almost as bright as a second moon.
As the sun rose, we visited a large lava tube, the entrance shrouded with lush vegetation.
The tube was about 200 yards long and big enough to drive a car through.
Coming out the other end, we found ourselves in a lush tropical forest.
Tree ferns with huge fiddleheads.
A profusion of plant life.
We drove through the national park all the way to the coast, then found our way back to Hilo for breakfast.
Loco moco! Ken's House of Pancakes is a local tradition, and they make a fine version of this Hawaiian staple. For the uninitiated, that's rice topped with a beef patty, thick brown gravy, and two eggs. There are dozens of variations, many locals prefer Spam to beef, I particularly enjoyed a version featuring fried rice and crispy pork belly.
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The next day, we drove up the coast to see the sights. The scenic route was a twisty, often one-lane road along the shoreline featuring many small, picturesque coves.
Our goal was to find the trail to Akaka falls, which turned out to be easy.
The landscape was incredibly verdant.
The falls drop 442 feet and are surrounded by lush rainforest teeming with flowers and birds.
On the way back to Hilo, we decided to go for some goat therapy. The caramels weren't bad either.
We have the t-shirts to prove it.
In the afternoon, we booked a tour of one of Hawaii's many chocolate farm's, located in the hills overlooking Hilo bay.
Cacao grows well here.
Pods ripening on the trees.
The flesh around the beans is sweet and tasty. The beans themselves are edible raw, but until they're roasted, they don't taste much like chocolate.
The tour included a chocolate tasting, of course. Five different blends--including white, milk, and dark--all delicious.
It was John's last night, so we feasted on steak and wine at Steak and Wine, with a lovely view of Hilo bay.
Martinis first, of course.
Next morning, we left for Kona early enough to watch the sunrise over Hilo bay.
On our way across the island, we had a view of the observatory (and a little snow) at the top of Mauna Kea. I planned to watch the sunset that night from the lookout at 9,400 feet on the west side of the mountain.
But first kalua pork loco loco at A-Bay's in Kona. So delicious.
I dropped John at the airport for his 11:50 flight, then headed down the coast to the southernmost tip of the island, also the southernmost point in the U.S. The point was incredibly windy, and there were windmill farms to take advantage of it.
After exploring the southeast of the island, I checked into the funky old Dolphin Bay Motel. The white Jeep was our trusty ride for the trip.
I left for Mauna Kea in the late afternoon, well bundled-up against the high-altitude chill. At 9,400 feet, the view was spectacular. The summit is over 13,000 feet, but it was plenty cold and windy where I was, so I was happy not to go higher.
I hadn't really thought much about the wind chill, but it was bearable as long as the sun was shining.
I was able to shelter from most of the wind behind a sun-warmed rock and settled in to enjoy the view.
The sunset was worth the wait and the discomfort.
Not before enjoying some spectacular starscapes, though. The stars around Orion were particularly brilliant.
Including the Pleiades.
Next morning, a friend joined me in the shower.
My flight (unfortunately not first class this time) included a layover in Phoenix. The flight from Phoenix to Boise took us over canyon country.
And so I retuned from a tropical paradise to the frozen north.
My flight home wasn't until 10:45 pm, so I spent the morning exploring the rolling hills in the north central section of the island, stopping for an early lunch at The Fish & The Hog, a restaurant John and I had seen a few days before on our way to Hilo.
I started with an excellent piña colada.
Followed by a superb BBQ sampler plate.
The crackseed sauce was the best. What's crackseed? I asked Mr. Google, who told me: "Crack seed is a category of snacks that originated in China. It is highly popular in many regions, such as Hawaii. Crack seed are preserved fruits that have been cracked or split with the seed or kernel partially exposed as a flavor enhancement."
I drove to the far northwest corner of the island. That's Maui just across the water.
My flight (unfortunately not first class this time) included a layover in Phoenix. The flight from Phoenix to Boise took us over canyon country.
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