It may seem a bit disappointing at first that the train to Marrakesh is electric. You're probably hoping for more of a Lawrence of Arabia vibe (without the explosions, of course). Then too, it isn't an express, either. There are several stops at small towns along the way.
But that disappointment is fleeting. The train zips along, quietly, smoothly, through the verdant Moroccan countryside, regaling you with a series of snapshots of daily life.
A mule-powered pickup.
The three-and-a-half hour journey flies by.
The land slowly gets more arid as you go south.
Our B&B was located in the old medina, a huge labyrinth of narrow alleys filled with shops, people, and animals. It's inaccessible by car, so the taxi dropped us on the outskirts where we hired a porter to help us navigate the maze.
The further into the medina you go, the narrower the streets.
The door to our B&B. Like most places in the medina, the outside tells you nothing about the interior.
Which turned out to be a tiny, but lovely courtyard.
Our host had an array of sweets and delicious mint tea waiting for our arrival.
Our room was located on the rooftop patio.
We had an excellent view of the rooftops of the medina.
It took a few days to get our bearings. Our host provided us with a map and even took us out to the main square and helped us find our way back. After a few tries, we got familiar enough with the area that we were able to walk all over with reasonable confidence.
The medina is a busy place. Crowded with people and animals, constantly humming with activity.
The main square is the heart of the medina. Very active during the day, it really comes alive at night.
Even the garbage collectors are mule-drawn.
The outer precincts are quiet and mostly residential.
While the commercial areas are packed with shops selling just about everything, especially leather goods.
There are stunning displays of colorful spices.
Not to mention preserved fruits and olives.
A fish vendor's stall attracts a customer. Cats are everywhere in the medina. Moroccans love them because they keep the rodent population under control.
Vivid rugs and fabrics flutter in doorways.
And the doors themselves are works of art.
There are many old palaces and madrassas that are open to the public. Visiting them gives you some idea of what life in old Morocco was like.
The craftsmanship, both in wood and tile, is magnificent.
None of these places look like much from the outside. It's only when you penetrate the spacious interiors that you can see the serene beauty that waits there.
I visited this shoemaker's shop. He traced the outline of my feet on a piece of newspaper and in 48 hours I had a new pair of shoes.
Very comfortable and stylish for a mere $20.
Needless to say, the food is delicious. We loved the myriad of small plates with various tastes and textures.
Anima, an amazing sculpture garden, blooms in the desert about 15 miles out of town.
It's the brainchild of André Heller, an Austrian artist whose vision has turned eight dusty hectares into a magical oasis.
Wonderful pieces of contemporary art inhabit the beautifully landscaped park.
Every plant was shipped here from outside, completely transforming this patch of former desert.
We grew quite comfortable in the medina, navigating the alleyways without fear even after dark.
And that was a good thing, because all the fun starts after the sun goes down.
One of the highlights of the late-night casbah is these impromptu jam sessions put on by Gnawa musicals from the nearby Atlas mountains. The complex rhythms are truly hypnotic. One of my favorite memories of Marrakesh.
P.
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