Casablanca has been an important port city since Phoencian and Roman traders first anchored here. Today, it is still one of the world's largest ports, with a population of almost 7 million in the greater metropolitan area. The city was under Portuguese control from the 1400s, then ceded to Spain. French colonial rule didn't begin until the late 1800s, and much of downtown was built in the early 1900s to the design of a French architect in a unique amalgam of Hispano-Moorish and Art Deco styles.
I actually stopped here twice on this trip, visiting on my own on my way to Liberia for three days and for a day and a half with O after we left Liberia.
It was my first visit to a Muslim country, and I have to admit that i was a little nervous for the first day, having read much about pickpockets, etc. I was pleasantly surprised by the city once I walked around for a bit. It isn't a friendly town on the surface, but the people I interacted with were exceptionally warm and welcoming.
From my hotel room I had a good view of downtown Casablanca with the minaret of the Hassan II mosque in the background. Every day, at regular intervals, the Muslim call to prayer is broadcast from the city's many mosques. I grew to love the sound, partly as a reminder that I was in a very different environment than I am used to.
Flying from Monrovia to Casablanca took us over a vast area of rugged desert. From altitude it was just possible to make out the tiny pixels of houses in little villages in the twisting wadis below.
The snow-covered Atlas Mountains divide the desert south from the fertile plains of northern Morocco.
After flying over so many miles of brown, arid landscape, the lush greenery of the north took us by surprise.
As you might expect, the French colonial influence lingers in Casablanca's wide boulevards lined by outdoor cafes serving excellent coffee, croissants, and delicious Moroccan mint tea.
A light rail system connects downtown with the populous suburbs
The old fort still aims protective cannon over the harbor.
The old colonial buildings are a bit shabby, but still beautiful.
Inside the walls of the old city, the medina still teems with every kind of commerce.
The narrow alleys lined with stalls are like a maze in which it is easy to lose your bearings. No cars allowed.
Signs in French and Arabic entice shoppers into tiny storefronts crammed with delicious local products.
Little cafes offer tasty respite from a morning of non-stop haggling.
Spicy local sausages are cheap and delicious. No pork, of course.
Horse, however, is very definitely on the menu.
Moroccans love cats. The markets are filled with feline moochers, which I'm sure keeps the rat population down. I saw very few dogs.
The city also sports a few examples of more modern architecture.
Casablanca is city very much in transition from the old to the new. One of the most liberal Islamic countries, Morocco has implemented many reforms in human rights and on women's issues in the last twenty years. The Moroccans I talked to were very proud of this, pointing out that they are far freer that citizens of other Muslim nations.
The Hassan II mosque, named after the current king's father, who conceived the project in 1980, sits on a promontory overlooking the harbor. Its minaret is the tallest in the world at 690 feet and houses a laser that points to Mecca. The mosque itself is the fifth largest in the world with a capacity of 25,000 worshippers, which can be expanded by a further 80,000 using the surrounding courtyard. It is one of the few mosques in the world that allow unbelievers to enter.
The mosque took 2,500 workers seven years to build. Over 10,000 artisans were employed to produce the beautiful geometric carvings and mosaics that adorn the massive structure.
The huge outer doors are made of titanium to keep their weight manageable..
Other than a few Italian marble columns and glass chandeliers, all the materials used in construction are from Morocco.
Hijab is required for female visitors.
The detail work, inside and out, is stunning.
Under the mosque are pools for ritual bathing, segregated by sex.
Watching the sun set over the Atlantic Ocean.
The seaside promenade near the mosque is a favorite gathering place for Casablancans at the end of the day.
Whole families picnic on the rocks, joined by the occasional cat.
Feeling that no visit to Casablanca would be complete with paying homage to the movie, I headed back to the medina and Rick's Cafe.
The original Rick''s, of course, was on a soundstage in Hollywood, but this re-creation is an excellent substitute. No gambling, and no Nazis, but they do make a fine Martini. Since most restaurants in Morocco don't serve alcohol, this was a welcome treat.
And of course the pianist has to play "As Time Goes By" at least once during the evening.
The food was surprisingly good. I started with a fresh and delightful goat cheese and fig salad. Next, some of the best grilled lamb chops I've ever had. A wonderful dinner, followed by a leisurely stroll back to my hotel.
I was so happy with the place that I brought O back on our second visit. We sat at the bar where we were accosted by a semi-inebriated half-French, half-Moroccan man who insisted on buying us drink after drink while he told us his life story. He told us his father was in the Resistance in WWII and kept repeating how grateful he was to us as Americans for liberating France. Finally, after our third Martini, he left us. The bar staff were very apologetic and comped us another Martini each, though we assured them that all was well.
The food in Morocco is amazing. Shawarma stands on every corner waft the delicious smell of roasting meat. No pressed meat logs here, just spiced, sliced beef, chicken, and lamb flamed crispy.
The French influence is still evident. Snails as street food.
Leading to some unique trash in the curbside bins.
The restaurants offer tasty and colorful salads with beautiful produce and fresh-made bread.
Of course, the classic cuisine of Morocco is the tagine.
There are many versions of this slow-cooked casserole/stew, but all of them meld savory, sweet, salty, and spicy flavors into a fragrant, mouth-watering, umami-laden dish. This one features beef with prunes, apricots, and almonds.
This one marries chicken with preserved lemon and olives.
And every meal must end with a glass of hot Moroccan mint tea. The mint here tastes different than any I've had before, and is served with just enough sugar. It's almost enough to make up for the lack of alcohol.
On our last morning in Casablanca, we started our Valentine's Day celebration with a beautiful Moroccan breakfast. Truly spectacular. The orange juice here is so much sweeter and more flavorful than what we get at home.
And then it was time to take the train to Marrakesh.
P.
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