Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Ha Long, O Lord, Ha Long.

On Saturday morning about 130 Hanoi-dwelling expats, all loyal readers of the New Hanoian web site, which sponsored the trip, boarded three large air-conditioned buses for a two-day excursion to Ha Long Bay.


We thought the curtains were an elegant touch.


We got our first look at the countryside surrounding Hanoi.


Verdant rice fields surrounding small villages. The trip took
about 3 hours. We were semi-prepared to be slightly
underwhelmed, but when we got our first glimpse of the ocean
with the dim shapes of dozens of tiny islands
looming in the watery haze, we knew we were
about to experience something wonderful.


Ha Long port is a busy destination, both for tourists
and cargo ships. This cable-stayed bridge floats about it all.


The group was so big, we filled three junks. Ours was the Hailong Suite.


The other two junks in our flotilla.


O. enjoys a welcome cocktail at our portside table on the second deck.


The main dining room.


Our cabin was very comfortable, with a great view of the sea to starboard.


Delicious fresh crab and shrimp.


This shredded grapefruit salad was especially tasty.


The scenery was incredible. There are hundreds,
if not thousands of these small limestone islands,
stretching for miles in all directions.

Legend says they are the back of a dragon which submerged itself in the bay.


Oddly, there are no seagulls. The only birds we saw were
swallows nesting in the cliffs and a dozen or so circling hawks.


It is truly otherworldly.


Our first destination for the day was a floating
fishing village located deep with the maze of islands.


We were loaded into small boats and rowed into town.


The locals raise fish and prawns and sell pearls and
souvenirs to the tourists. There are around 400
tourist junks plying these waters, but the bay
is so huge we rarely saw other tourist boats.


Dogs and babies everywhere.


Almost all the rowers who paddled us around in these small boats
were young women. They work hard.


It's a beautiful setting, but a little sad.


We returned to our boats via the scenic route.



I'm sure our rowers were glad to see the sails of our junks in the distance.


A young villager goes to sea in a styrofoam cooler.


Back at the ship, the chef had decorated the table for our Vietnamese cooking lesson.



O. was the first to try her hand at rolling
nem ran (fried spring rolls).
"All in the wrist," she claims nonchalantly.


Gin and tonics were available at sunset.

We threaded our way through the islands to the small bay
where we would moor for the night.
Dinner was to be served in Drum Cave, actually more
of a natural tunnel that goes entirely through
one of the larger islands. As we approached the island,
we could see the glow from the cave and hear the music playing.


The steps to the cave were strewn with flower petals for our arrival.


The cave itself was enormous and filled with candles
and other lights, as well as revelers.


The New Hanoian audience of expats is a prized demographic,
so many vendors had contributed to make the night
very special. Bacardi and many other makers of spirits,wine,
and beer kept free alcohol flowing freely all night long.
Barbequed meats and seafood were also abundant.


The setting couldn't have been more spectacular.


We met many friendly, interesting people. Expats tend
to be adventurous,with unusual life stories.
We ate, we drank, we laughed, we danced.
Then we went back to the ship and drank and
laughed somemore. Some of us were asleep by 1:30.
Others caroused until nearly dawn.


The choice of activities for the morning was
(A) climb this mountain for a view of the bay,
(B) go swimming at the beach at the base of the mountain,
or (C) lie about groaning. Sadly, many of our group
were forced to choose (C).


I chose (A) and (B). The stairs to the top of the
mountain weren't quite Mayan temple steep,
but there were few places to pause and pant.

But the view was definitely worth it.
 And afterward the warm salt water was incredibly refreshing.

I think you can see that we had a great time.

P.

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Teaser? I hardly know 'er.

Over the weekend, we took our first major out-of-town trip: a two day cruise around Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We took a ton of pictures, so it will take a day or two to get something posted. Hence the tease.

O. flags a cab at the start of our excellent adventure.

P.

Friday, September 25, 2009

Le fils des fesses d'un chien!

From the pages of the Hanoi Times comes the story of a young Frenchman and his dream. Guaranteed to moisten even the driest of eyes.

P.

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Creepy.

Since I got here I have been noticing the funky mannequins of Hanoi's myriad clothing stores. Many look like they've been around forever. All (that I've seen, anyway) have Caucasian (well, I guess it has "asian" in it anyway) features. Just as most of the billboards, and especially those for beauty products, features Western models. It's odd to me. Here's a country with some of the most beautiful women in the world (just walk around Hanoi and you'll see what I mean) and the model of beauty doesn't reference them.

But that's getting off track. The mannequins here intrigue me. They look funky and odd from afar, but examine them close up and they are very disturbing.

Here a sample:

They seem reasonably normal at first glance.

Close up, not so much. Click on pictures for full effect.

Not quite convinced? How about these?

There are many of these amputee children.

Zombies?

Or aliens?

You be the judge.

Okay, one mannequin of color. But her head's held on with scotch tape.

P.